Showing posts with label favorite joints. Show all posts
Showing posts with label favorite joints. Show all posts

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Eats and the Inevitable

I finally got to try the Gastro Cart in downtown Denver today, and ohhh yeah.


It’s just a little silver lunch cart on the corner of 18th and Curtis. They could be selling hot dogs. There wasn’t an awning, or a seating area.


But they’re working an angle, honey: it’s good food.


Run by two former line-cooks at Table 6, the Gastro Cart serves a menu that is (wisely) limited in scope. On the regular menu are chicken tacos, veggie tacos, a lamb gyro, and a side. There’s also a daily special. All this week, it’s the Haitian-style pork slider, with half the sale proceeds going to the American Red Cross for earthquake relief efforts. (Decent, right?)


The execution is incredibly low-budge. Specials are advertised on Twitter and Facebook. The menu is a photocopied quarter-page of white paper. Your pay options? Cash only.


The execution is also totally delicious. I got the special, the pork slider, and it was a really good little sammich. (With homemade pickle - cute.) Straightforward, but not simple-minded, not totally obvious. A surprisingly sophisticated combination of flavors.


I took one bite and thought, This could be habit-forming.


The Handsome Man and I are going back tomorrow for actual lunch.


I’m already loving this concept.


A movement towards really good street food. It activates my imagination: gastro carts and foodie stands on every other downtown corner, serving excellent, unfussy dishes at reasonable prices. Denver would become known for its sublime options for edgy corner dining. Our residents would come to define everyday eats as real food that supports local micro-businesses (and, preferably, local producers of produce, dairy and meat).


Let's face it - it’s only a matter of time before I find myself in a hairnet, guys. We might as well start getting our heads around it.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Exposed

Aw, man! Taqueria Patzcuaro was featured in Kyle Wagner’s recent Post article about Denver’s best green chile spots!


They know me there. No, really - they start making my drink when they see me walk in the door. The waiter comes by to say hello and confirm my order. He doesn’t ask me if I want a menu. He knows I don’t want or need a menu. I’ve been ordering the same thing for the last ten years, and he knows it as well as I do.


My drink: the icy-sweet, delightfully fruity cantaloupe liquado


My plate: the smothered bean burrito with cheese, lettuce and tomato


Taq Patz is five minutes away from one of my old jobs, and five minutes away from one of my old residences. I used to go there all the time, for a couple of years. It’s more than 20 minutes away from home now, but I’m still there at least once a month.


I’m, well, I am who I have always been: the girl lunching off-hours alone in the window booth, nose in a book. To me - such a treat! In ten years, only one waiter - and he was a neophyte - has ever asked me, “So what are you reading?” What part of me reading did you not understand? No. The regular waiters are consistently polite and efficient, and bring me a straw without being asked, without ever intruding on my space.


I have so much love for this experience.


Darn you, Kyle Wagner. Your brand of recognition is guaranteed to clog the joint with noisy groups of people who’ll linger over the menu, not knowing what they want. And that will only embolden Taq Patz to raise prices further. When I started going there, the smothered bean burrito was a mind-bogglingly reasonable $1.85. I could manage the burrito, the liquado and a generous, thanks-for-not-bugging-me tip for five bucks.


Aw, man.


I’m only kidding (mostly). I’m glad for them to get the recognition they deserve. Go, Taq Patz!


Meanwhile, I’m still waiting for my favorite-most-familiar restaurants in this town, like Taqueria Patzcuaro, to name my signature dish after me. I don’t order the same thing everywhere I go, but at any given restaurant, I’ve worked out the Preferred Daughter special, if you will. And I’m a Denver native. There are restaurants I have been frequenting for more than a decade. It only seems natural that a restauranteur might name said dish after this loyal, enthusiastic patron with excellent taste.


I guess, like with so many things, apparently, first I’ll have to earn a book award.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

The Last Brunch

Handsome and I made a point of going out to brunch today, having realized a little belatedly that this is the last weekend of the year 2009, and thus the last opportunity for weekend brunch in 2009.

We've been dining in a lot recently, cooking at home much more frequently than was typical at the beginning of 2009. I'm happy to report that they've been mostly tasty and presentable, these kitchen-based efforts of mine. I feel a sense of accomplishment about that, having wanted for years to improve my skills in that direction.

But my attempts to make a good home-based brunch are more than skill-oriented. I'm learning to make brunch out of an abstract, reactionary belligerence.

Why aren't there more options for delicious, casual, bruncheon dining out in central Denver? (I just made up that word. "Bruncheon". Or maybe I'm bringing it back. Like how your grandma called lunch "luncheon".)

Even on the weekend, I don't feel like driving out to Lakewood or Boulder for a quality casual brunch. Especially when I live in what I consider to be the city center, the heart of the metropolitan area. That not just geographical snobbery, or hometown pride. It's population numbers and demographics. We should be able to produce a better-than-just-decent brunch here. There should be a whole set of options for delicious brunch in Denver.

Instead, I go to places, even places that have come highly recommended, and I think, "Well, shit. I could've done better than this at home." That is not how I like to feel at the end of a meal I'm paying for. I don't burn the potatoes. I don't cram people into my dining room. I don't overly sweeten and salten and fatten my cooking to make up for what I might be lacking in skill or the food might be lacking in freshness.

Offhand, I can think of three restaurants in town that originally seemed promising but ultimately just didn't deliver.

And Denver patrons piss me off, because each one of the restaurants that come to mind as disappointments is still open, and at each one of them, there will be a wait for a table every Saturday at noon. I mean a wait with a line out the door.

Make that four restaurants.

I drive by this one restaurant, with its line of patrons that have agreed to wait outside for mediocre brunch in an hour, and I want to heckle them. "Too bad you can't fry eggs at home..."

For real.

So, basically, my at-home brunch is an act of resistance.

Yes, in my imaginary world where it's me against the tyranny of bad food, I'm taking action.

Anyway, it takes something special to lure me out for brunch these days - the company of a good girlfriend, an outrageously good review, a compelling proximity to my house.

Or the reliability of what's tried and true.

Enter Le Central, where the host greets Handsome by name, and we're willing to wait a few minutes for an intimate, wobbly two-top on the invariably sunny patio. You can go in heels, you can go in jeans, you can go with the whole fam damily, you can go a little hungover. The prices are affordable without feeling cheap. The food is consistent without feeling routine. The vibe is casual without being grungy. The ambience is evocatively francais without being intimidating.

Le Central was the obvious choice for brunch today. It's lovely to linger over a meal, sharing bites and munching on crusty bread. As a fan of noontime drinking le weekend, I always appreciate the arrival of my white wine flight, four petite glasses of monochromatic three-ounce selections from the wine list. We tend to stay a while. Today, two different parties were seated, ate lunch, and departed while Handsome and I and several other tables sipped and nibbled. They don't get it, I thought to myself.

I have aggressive at-home cooking goals for 2010, or I should say, aggressive goals for culinary skill-building. I'm really excited about learning more and getting better. I've been enjoying poring over cookbooks, organizing recipe files, and conducting internet research. I've been watching more cooking shows and talking food with a wider variety of people. I love it when dinner tastes amazing and looks attractive and my guests take pleasure in eating with us.

I also love a place that makes me feel glad I chose to eat out.

Happy Last Brunch of 2009! Hope you chose it well!

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Last Friday

Last Friday night ended pretty well, but it started perfectly:

Generously poured wine and
an array of delicious hors d’oeuvres
munched standing
while visiting with old friends and comrades
in the spacious, well-appointed kitchen
of the big, pretty home where I’m welcome like family.

First you feel silly for even considering not coming.
Then you just feel good, and at home, and well cared for -
- Why yes, thank you, I think I will have another.
Then you feel your whole stupid week melt away
and you remember:
This is a celebration.

Among other things, we were celebrating the Denver premiere of William Kunstler: Disturbing the Universe, an excellent independent film made by family of friends of my friends, and showing through this weekend at Starz Film Centre here. One of the filmmakers was at our little pre-party, yukking it up with me, The Handsome Man and my buddy KC about dive bars, bad jokes and New York City. (Well, me and KC were yukking it up, anyway. The director, like Handsome, was actually pretty reserved.)

Within our little crew, the plan was to go see the film where it was premiering at Chez Artiste Theatre, stay for the Q&A with the filmmaker and her sister, and then hit the town to celebrate KC’s birthday.

The movie was fantastic, and I’ve recommended it highly to everybody I know. If you don’t recall, Kunstler was an important civil rights attorney, famous for defending high-profile cases. He was also a dad, though, and the film does a really sensitive and touching job of documenting Kunstler’s accomplishments while exploring what it meant to be his offspring.

A note to any filmmakers: Denver will apparently get all up in your business during a talkback. I was surprised by how bluntly personal were some of the questions to the young auteur, but she handled herself adeptly enough.

I had a personal question, too, but I didn’t ask it. I thought it was overly personal, maybe off topic, and I didn’t know quite how to put it. A recurring theme in the movie was the daughters’ sense of difference from their father - sometimes wonder, sometimes disapproval, sometimes criticism. I wanted to know, What are the moments when you have felt most strongly or inescapably, “I am William Kunstler’s daughter.” I also wanted to know if there were any parts of the movie that she or the other sister present thought their dad wouldn’t agree with their telling of.

Mostly though, I just wanted to applaud her for making such a powerful tribute to her father. A film of this scope is no small project. The making of it must have been rife with challenging moments of analysis and introspection. And now the results stand as a work of art, apart now from either of them, as a record of a man’s achievements and of his daughters’ love for him. Whatever unresolved feelings the filmmakers might profess for their father, this film represents an incredible labor of love, and that’s kind of painfully beautiful to me. Really moving. I want to clap right now thinking about it. Good show.

And then it was time for partying! Handsome graciously was serving as designated driver, so the birthday girl had ridden with us, and the world was our oyster. Being KC, she declared she wanted to end the night at JJ’s Nightclub on East Colfax.

JJ’s is the preferred spot among local, retirement age African-Americans who enjoy a little R&B and dancing with with their well-priced Seven and Sevens. Perfectly harmless, but an unlikely choice for most Denver white girls turning 36. JJ’s is about one mile from my house, and I like it alright, as I’m both African-American and inclined to dance, and did I mention it’s a mile from my house. Handsome likes it alright because he doesn’t like to pay more than $3 for a beer, and he is not opposed to dancing, and internally he is a 60-year old man. KC likes it a lot because she’s just that cosmopolitan and gets along with everybody. Plus, to KC, your small-minded comfort zone is your problem, not hers. And at the end of the day, JJ’s is low-key, plays good music and doesn’t have anything poppin off when you’re just trying to get your drink and/or dance on. What’s not to like?

At the same time, we were rolling that night with a white foursome comprised of KC’s two female coworkers and their fellas (one boyfriend, one husband). One of the couples lives in the straight-up suburbs. I know many a resident of metropolitan Denver is frightened at just the mention of East Colfax, Denver's historic avenue infamous for prostitution, crime and the urban poor. You add the promise of liquor to the equation, and guarantee a majority of black folks, and some of your friends are going to be frantic for a way to politely decline.

“You call the shots, dude,” I told KC. “You’re the birthday girl.” However, I suggested, we might want to ease her friends into the idea of JJ’s. Maybe talk it up while we start off at some place a little more familiar.

But when we took it to the full group, between the aged and the married and the aged married, we couldn’t think of a single “familiar” place we were excited about going to. (With no restrictions. On a Friday night. It was a little sad.) JJ’s almost won by default right then, but instead we decided to go to The Funky Buddha Lounge on Lincoln Ave.

I hadn't ever been there before. Or if I had been, it was with those hard-drinking friends I used to lose evenings with, and as of last Friday, I didn’t have any recollection of it. I’ll say this about the place: the more I drank, the more I enjoyed it.

That's not an endorsement.

It got points for having a comfy seven-person booth near the bar, and I liked the idea of a heated rooftop patio for dancing. (Right?) But the music they were playing wasn’t great, and the crowd was a little young and naked and heavily-fragranced for my tastes. And the drinks were not cheap. For the purposes of boozing, I appreciate cheap drinks.

So, once we’d gotten a little liquor into everybody, we hopped back in the car and Handsome drove us east in The Black Ru to JJ’s.

By this point, I was liking our extended crew aplenty. Wry girl from last month’s art walk, bet. Funny girl laughing at all my jokes, bet. Husky-voiced boyfriend who proclaimed early, “Everybody is racist, there’s no point denying it,” awesome. Mild-mannered husband who was nonetheless relentlessly game, great.

We got to JJ’s, and it was hopping! Classic R&B pumping from the sound system, DJ on hand for requests. A bar loaded with middle-aged ladies and gentlemen enjoying a cocktail. Tables with well-dressed couples, talking closely. At least one table of neatly pressed granddads playing some board game or card game. A dance floor crowded with thick-waisted, graying-haired enthusiasts.

There was a long, empty table situated conveniently between the bar, the dj and the dance pavilion, just waiting for us. Joe went and bought a round of drinks - which you can do casually, even on a budget, at JJ’s. KC cornered the DJ and started laying out playlists. I watched everybody else -- our suburban friends as well as the patrons who were there when we arrived -- try not to stare openly at "the other".

Then, like magic or an injection, everybody relaxed. Those folks went back to what they had been doing before - dancing, drinking talking - and we went back to what we’d been doing before - dancing, drinking, talking. Then, after a little while, we started doing it together. The whole bar seemed to like KC’s selection of songs, and a bunch of us thronged the dance floor as one. Even the mild-mannered husband who supposedly “doesn’t dance” was up on the floor and clearly enjoying himself. His wife was dancing with two ladies and a man we didn’t know.

I chatted up the barmaid (who said she liked my hair, which was my hair, and “down”). I introduced myself to a lady who looked familiar and turned out to be my old Sunday School teacher from Holy Redeemer! (Denver.) Together, she and I got up on the dance floor and did some group dance I don’t know and had never heard of, but yep, danced to regardless. I made friends with the DJ, a powerful presence of a sista, who might have been wearing a yellow turban and matching long robes, but maybe I’m misremembering.

Damn, we had a good time!

I completely didn’t notice when a message came over the sound system saying that a blue Subaru parked in the lot had been hit by another patron’s car. And I hardly cared when it turned out that it was a black Subaru that had been hit, and, uh, ours. Like the good men they are, Handsome and the cap-wearing boyfriend went out to deal with it. Like the good folks they are, the owner and the bouncer at the club had witnessed it all, and the departing patron had stopped and waited to give her insurance to us. Handsome and the dutiful boyfriend collected the driver’s information, with the owner and bouncer offering helpful suggestions.

I did my part, too: I told the DJ that ours was the car that had been hit (the DJ made some sympathetic noises), and asked if she would please play my husband’s favorite jam when he got back in, but please to wait until he returned, because right now he was outside dealing with the car, and if he heard his song happening inside, it would just add insult to injury. She agreed to help me out.

“You two make a beautiful couple,” she told me. As I thanked her, she leaned in closer, to confide, “I like white guys, too.”

Surprised, and then tickled, I didn’t bother to inform her that The Handsome Man is Latino.

Handsome returned shortly, pleased that the damage was not major and the incident had all been handled in such a civilized fashion. (The last time our parked car was hit, in the parking lot of Whole Foods, the perpetrator denied he was responsible, then lied to his insurance company saying that we had hit him, which was totally preposterous and contradictory to eyewitness testimony and videotape evidence. It worked out eventually to our satisfaction, but was very disappointing vis a vis our faith in humankind.)

Just as soon as Handsome had finished briefing me, the opening strains of his song came over the system.

“You wanna dance about it?” I quipped, taking his hand and leading him to the floor.

“Did you request this song?” he asked me with a smile.

“What do you think?” I asked coyly.

The night was getting late, and the dance floor was nearly empty. We danced together, while I serenaded him and he serenaded me. I could see the tension melting off of his face and his shoulders. The DJ’s voice came on and called us out by name: “...this one’s for you!” Oh, how Handsome grinned at me!

There were only a couple more dances before the bar was closing and the night was over. We thanked our fine hosts on the way out, hugged our new friends goodbye in the parking lot, and drove home a happy, tipsy KC.

On the way back to our house, as is my wont, I gabbed to Handsome about our night -- the pre-party, the movie, the filmmaker, the coworkers, their husbands, the bar, the nightclub, our smashed car door, KC, getting older. Then, spent and satisfied, I sat back and smiled to myself. Something “bad” had happened to us, something that certainly could have derailed our good time for the night. But to the extent that it even registered in the context of our fun time, secure world and blessed lives, what did we do?

We danced through it.

I have a funny inkling of a hope that it is within me to feel that powerful all the time.